The Art of Handcrafted Mayonnaise

Mayonnaise.  We’ve all seen it and eaten it, or know someone who has an aversion to it (possibly).  But what exactly is mayonnaise; where did it come from?  Well, first, it is a condiment.[1]   Multiple sources state that it is a cold emulsion of egg yolks and oil, flavored with vinegar (or lemon juice), seasonings and spices.  It is one of the classic Mother Sauces (along with Hollandaise) because it is used as a base for so many things, such as salad dressings and dipping sauces.[4]  The origins of this are credited to multiple people:  the personal chef of Louis-Francois-Armand de Vignerot du Plessis, duc de Richelieu in 1756; the French chef Marie Antoine Careme; the French cities of Bayonne and Les Mayons; in 1589 after the Battle of Arques in honor of Charles de Lorraine, duc de Mayenne.[1,3]  According to the website, whatscookingamerica.net, “In 1910, Nina Hellman….made a dressing that her husband used on the sandwiches and salads he used in his New York delicatessen.”[3]  He sold it to customers, and eventually in 1912, Hellman’s® Mayonnaise was officially for sale.

You may be wondering “Why do you bother to make your own mayonnaise (and other items) when it’s so much easier to just buy it at the store?”  I will tell you why – no preservatives and fresher ingredients.  You also control (oh no the dreaded “C” word) all the ingredients used.  And in my opinion, fresh made tastes so much better than the stuff you can buy at the store.   True it does take time to gather everything together, and then actually make the recipe.  I present to you a challenge, nay, a quest.  Gather together the ingredients and make a batch of mayo.  Make a sandwich, egg or chicken salad, or whatever you normally use mayonnaise for.  Compare it against the jarred stuff.  Post your results here.

There are three ways to make this:  in a large bowl with a whisk (traditional), in a blender, or in a food processor.  Personally I think the food processor is easier, followed by the traditional, then blender.    This is purely from a clean-up perspective.

Basic Mayonnaise adapted from Garde Mange: The Art and Craft of the Cold Kitchen (Culinary Institute of America, published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc.) (makes 2 cups)

  • 1-1/2 ounces cage free, organic egg yolk
  • 24 ounces oil (3 cups)
  • ½ ounce vinegar, either white wine or champagne
  • ½ ounce water
  • 1/8 teaspoon dry mustard (pinch)
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
  • ½ ounce organic lemon juice
  • 2/8 ounce kosher salt (2 pinches)

Items needed:

–          Large bowl method

  • Liquid measuring cup
  • Whisk
  • Rolled towel
  • Storage container
  • Spatula
  • Tasting spoons

–          Food processor / blender method

  • Liquid measuring cup
  • Storage container
  • Spatula
  • Tasting spoons

In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolk until slightly foamy.  You can also do this in a food processor, or a blender, however the blender will eventually be a bit difficult as the mayonnaise becomes thicker the more oil is added.

Add the oil in a thin, gradual stream, whipping constantly, until all the oil is incorporated and the mayonnaise is thick. 

Finally, blend in the vinegar (or lemon juice), water, mustard, white pepper and salt.

Taste the mayonnaise and adjust seasonings as needed. 

Refrigerate immediately.  Keeps for about 2 weeks.

  1. http://www.madehow.com/Volume-6/Mayonnaise.html
  2. http://recipes.howstuffworks.com/food-facts/question617.htm
  3. http://whatscookingamerica.net/History/SauceHistory.htm
  4. http://www.easy-french-food.com/french-sauces.html

Variations:

Aioli (garlic mayonnaise) from Garde Mange: The Art and Craft of the Cold Kitchen(Culinary Institute of America, published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc.)

Add 1/4 teaspoon of finely minced garlic to Basic mayonnaise.  You can also roast the garlic ahead of time before adding to the mayonnaise.  Substitute Dijon mustard for the dry mustard.  Use regular or extra virgin olive oil in place of the oil. 

Roasted Shallot or Onion from Garde Mange: The Art and Craft of the Cold Kitchen (Culinary Institute of America, published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc.)

½ medium organic shallot or onion (depending on the size)

1-2 teaspoons olive oil

This can be done either stovetop or oven; each adds its own unique flavor. 

Stovetop method

  • Heat a sauté pan on medium
  • Using a cutting board and large chef knife, slice the shallot or onion into thin slices. 
  • Pour 1-2 teaspoons olive oil into sauté pan.  Add the shallot/onion slices.  Cook until golden brown.  Cool.
  • Add cooled slices to the Basic Mayonnaise recipe.  Puree until smooth.

Oven method

  • Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
  • Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment.
  • Toss shallot/onion slices in one teaspoon olive oil
  • Spread shallot/onion onto baking pan.  Bake until golden brown.  Remove from oven and cool.
  • Add cooled slices to the Basic Mayonnaise recipe.  Puree until smooth.

Roasted Jalapeno Mayonnaise adapted from http://www.ezrapoundcake.com/archives/16080

  • 3 organic jalapeno peppers
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • ½ cup fresh organic cilantro
  • 1 organic scallion (green onion)
  • 2 garlic cloves, skin removed
  • 1 organic lime, juiced
  • 6 fresh organic basil leaves
  • 1 cup fresh mayonnaise (above)
  • Sea salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste
  • 1/8 teaspoon smoked paprika

Additional items needed:

  • Medium sized bowl
  • Vinegar
  • Water
  • Rimmed baking sheet
  • Parchment paper
  • Cutting board
  • Large / small knife
  • Food processor

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. 

Be sure to clean the ingredients before using.  

Jalapeno peppers

If you have a gas stove or grill, place the jalapeno peppers over the flame.  Allow the skin to blacken and bubble up.  This takes approximately 2-3 minutes.  Flip the pepper and blacken on all sides.  Be careful the pepper does not catch on fire.  Remove from flame and place in a plastic bag, seal and allow to steam about 5 minutes.  Remove the pepper and remove the blackened skin using a paper towel or fork.  Discard skin, seeds, and core.

If using an oven, place jalapeno peppers on a parchment lined baking sheet, and drizzle with olive oil.  Broil for approximately 10-15 minutes, or until the skin is blackened and blistered.  Flip and broil another 5-10 minutes until charred. Remove from the oven, place in a sealed plastic bag and allow to steam 5 minutes.  Remove the pepper and remove the blackened skin using a paper towel or fork.  Discard skin, seeds, and core.  You can also wrap the jalapeno peppers in plastic wrap and “massage” to help remove the blistered skin. 

Next, cut the root end and about one inch from the top of the scallion

Place the mayonnaise in the food processor.  Add the roasted jalapeno peppers, cilantro, scallion, garlic, lime juice, basil, salt and pepper.  Puree until smooth.  Taste and adjust seasonings, if needed.

Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

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